How to Fix a Dropped Stitch in Knitting: A Step-by-Step Guide

How to Fix a Dropped Stitch in Knitting: A Step-by-Step Guide

Oh no! You’re happily knitting along, and then you spot it—a dropped stitch, unraveling your hard work like a tiny knitting rebellion. Don’t panic! Fixing a dropped stitch is easier than you think, and with a little know-how, you’ll have it back in place in no time. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the steps to rescue that runaway stitch and keep your project on track.

What’s a Dropped Stitch?

A dropped stitch happens when a stitch slips off your needle and starts to unravel, leaving a ladder of loose yarn strands. It’s super common, especially for beginners, but even seasoned knitters have their moments. The good news? You can fix it with just a crochet hook and a bit of patience.

Tools You’ll Need

  • Crochet hook: A small one, close to your needle size, works best.

  • Your knitting project: With the dropped stitch ready to be saved.

  • Good lighting: Trust me, it helps!

Step-by-Step Fix for a Dropped Stitch

  1. Spot the Dropped Stitch
    Look for the loose stitch—it’ll be a loop hanging below your needles, with a ladder of yarn strands above it. Don’t pull on your work, as this can make it unravel further.

  2. Secure the Stitch
    Grab your crochet hook and insert it through the dropped stitch from front to back (if you’re working on the knit side). This keeps it from slipping further down.

  3. Climb the Ladder
    Look at the ladder of yarn strands above the stitch. Each strand represents a row you need to “re-knit.” Hook the lowest strand with your crochet hook and pull it through the loop on your hook. Congrats—you’ve fixed one row! Repeat this for each strand, working your way up the ladder.

  4. Check Your Work
    As you pull each strand through, make sure the new stitch looks like a knit stitch (a little “V” shape). If it’s twisted, you might have pulled the strand incorrectly—undo it and try again.

  5. Place It Back on the Needle
    Once you’ve worked through all the ladder strands, your stitch should be at the top, looking fresh and ready. Slip it back onto your left needle (if you’re ready to knit it) or right needle (if you’re just storing it). Be careful not to twist it!

Pro Tips for Dropped Stitch Success

  • Work Slowly: Rushing can tangle the yarn or twist the stitch.

  • Practice on a Swatch: If you’re nervous, try dropping a stitch on a practice piece to get the hang of it.

  • Fix It ASAP: The sooner you catch a dropped stitch, the fewer rows you’ll need to repair.

  • Purl Side Problems?: If the dropped stitch is on the purl side, the fix is similar—just insert the hook from back to front and pull the ladder strand through to mimic a purl stitch.

When to Call It Quits

If the stitch has unraveled several rows and looks messy, or if you’re working with tricky yarn (like something super fuzzy), it might be easier to unravel a few rows back to the mistake and re-knit. But don’t worry—most dropped stitches are totally fixable with the crochet hook method!

Keep Calm and Knit On

Dropping a stitch can feel like a mini knitting disaster, but it’s really just a chance to flex your skills. With this technique in your toolkit, you’ll be ready to tackle any runaway stitch like a pro. So grab that crochet hook, take a deep breath, and show that stitch who’s boss!

Happy knitting,
Cindy - Fiber

Top 5 Sheep Breeds for Spinning: A Fiber Lover’s Guide

Top 5 Sheep Breeds for Spinning: A Fiber Lover’s Guide

If you’re a handspinner, you know the thrill of turning raw fleece into yarn that’s uniquely yours. The sheep breed you choose can make all the difference—each one offers distinct qualities, from softness to strength to stunning natural hues. Whether you’re spinning for a cozy sweater or a delicate shawl, here are five standout breeds that deserve a spot on your spindle.

1. Merino: The Luxury Staple

Merino sheep are the gold standard for spinners seeking softness. With wool measuring 18-24 microns, it’s fine enough to wear against the skin without a hint of itch. The crimpy, elastic fibers practically beg to be spun into lightweight yarns, and they soak up dye like a dream. If you’re after buttery-smooth skeins for a special project, Merino’s your go-to. It’s no wonder this breed dominates the high-end fiber world!

2. Rambouillet: Merino’s Sturdy Cousin

Think of Rambouillet as Merino with a bit more backbone. Developed from Merino stock, its wool (19-25 microns) blends fineness with durability and a slightly longer staple length. It spins up into sleek, worsted yarns with crisp stitch definition—perfect for structured garments or heirloom pieces. If you love Merino but want something a touch hardier, Rambouillet won’t disappoint.

3. Shetland: A Rainbow of Possibilities

Shetland sheep are small but mighty in the fiber department. Their wool ranges from fine to medium (23-30 microns) and comes in an array of natural shades—think moorit brown, soft greys, and creamy whites. It’s soft, lofty, and versatile, lending itself to both woolen-spun fluff and smooth worsted threads. For spinners who love color play without the dye pot, Shetland is a playground of options.

4. Corriedale: The All-Rounder

Born from a Merino-longwool cross, Corriedale strikes a balance between softness and strength (25-31 microns). Its longer staple length makes it a dream to work with, especially for beginners finding their rhythm at the wheel. The result? Consistent, all-purpose yarns that hold up in everything from socks to blankets. If you’re looking for a reliable, no-fuss fleece, Corriedale’s got you covered.

5. Bluefaced Leicester (BFL): Lustrous and Lovely

Bluefaced Leicester—or BFL to fiber fans—is the spinner’s secret weapon for elegance. Its wool (24-28 microns) is long, lustrous, and silky, with a subtle sheen that elevates any project. It spins into strong, smooth yarns with gorgeous drape, making it ideal for scarves, shawls, or anything that needs to flow. Want a yarn that feels as good as it looks? BFL delivers.

Which Breed Suits You?

Every spinner has their own style, and these breeds cater to a range of tastes. Craving luxury? Go Merino or Rambouillet. Love natural hues? Shetland’s your match. Need versatility? Corriedale’s a safe bet. Or if you’re dreaming of silky sheen, BFL might steal your heart. Whatever you choose, these fleeces offer endless possibilities for your next skein. What’s your favorite breed to spin—or one you’re dying to try?



Spinning Wheels & Spinning Wool

Spinning Wheels and Spinning Wool: A Beginner’s Guide to a Timeless Craft

There’s something magical about turning a fluffy handful of wool into a skein of yarn with nothing but a spinning wheel and a bit of patience. Spinning wool is an ancient craft that connects us to history, creativity, and the simple joy of making something with our hands. Whether you’re a knitter looking to create custom yarn or a curious beginner drawn to the rhythmic hum of a spinning wheel, this guide will walk you through the basics of spinning wheels and how to get started with spinning wool.

Schacht Matchless Spinning Wheel

What is a Spinning Wheel?

A spinning wheel is a tool that twists fibers—like wool, cotton, or alpaca—into thread or yarn. While hand-spinning predates it (think drop spindles), the spinning wheel revolutionized the process in the Middle Ages by speeding things up. Today, it’s both a practical tool and a beloved piece of artistry, with designs ranging from traditional wooden beauties to sleek modern versions.

At its core, a spinning wheel has a few key parts:

  • Wheel: Turned by hand or foot (via a treadle), it powers the spinning process.

  • Flyer and Bobbin: These work together to twist the fiber and wind the finished yarn.

  • Drive Band: A belt or cord that connects the wheel to the flyer, keeping everything in motion.

  • Tension System: Adjusts how fast the fiber is pulled in, giving you control over your yarn’s thickness.

There are different styles—like the upright “castle” wheel or the classic “Saxony” with its slanted frame—but they all share the same purpose: transforming raw wool into something you can knit, weave, or simply admire.

Why Spin Wool?

Spinning your own wool lets you customize everything—color, texture, thickness—to suit your projects. Plus, it’s deeply satisfying. You start with a cloud of fiber, often straight from a sheep, and end with yarn that’s uniquely yours. It’s sustainable, too—supporting local shepherds or even raising your own flock if you’re adventurous!

Wool is a fantastic fiber for beginners because it’s forgiving. Its natural crimp (that wavy texture) helps it grip together as you spin, making the process a little easier while you learn.

Getting Started: What You’ll Need

  1. A Spinning Wheel

    • New wheels can cost anywhere from $100 to over $1,000, depending on craftsmanship and features. Used ones are often a budget-friendly option—just check that all parts move smoothly. Brands like Ashford, Schacht, or Louët are popular for their reliability.

    • If you’re not ready to commit, try a drop spindle first. It’s cheaper (often under $20) and teaches the basics of twist.

  2. Wool

    • Look for “roving” or “top”—wool that’s been cleaned and carded into a long, fluffy strand. Breeds like Merino (soft and fine) or Corriedale (sturdy and beginner-friendly) are great starting points.

    • You can buy pre-dyed wool for instant color or natural wool to dye yourself later.

  3. Time and Patience

    • Spinning is a skill that grows with practice. Your first yarn might be lumpy or uneven—and that’s okay! It’s all part of the charm.

Roving for spinning

How to Spin Wool: The Basics

Here’s a simple rundown to get you going:

  1. Set Up Your Wheel

    • Adjust the tension so the wool feeds onto the bobbin without pulling too hard or slipping. Start with a medium setting and tweak as you go.

  2. Prepare Your Wool

    • Gently pull your roving into a manageable strip, about the width of your thumb. Don’t overstretch—it should feel airy, not tight.

  3. Start Spinning

    • Attach a “leader” yarn (a short piece of pre-spun yarn) to the bobbin to guide your wool. Hold the wool against the leader, then start pedaling (or turning the wheel) to add twist. Clockwise twist makes “Z-twist” yarn; counterclockwise makes “S-twist”—either works for beginners.

    • Let the twist travel up the wool, then guide it onto the bobbin by drafting (pulling the fiber gently apart). The trick is finding a rhythm between pedaling and drafting.

  4. Find Your Flow

    • Keep your hands light and relaxed. If the yarn gets too thin and breaks, overlap the ends and twist them back together. Too thick? Draft a little more before letting it wind on.

  5. Finish Your Yarn

    • Once your bobbin is full, unwind it into a skein (a loose loop) using a niddy-noddy or chair back. Soak it in lukewarm water to “set the twist,” then hang it to dry. Voilà—yarn ready to use!

Tips for Success

  • Practice Makes Perfect: Don’t aim for flawless yarn right away. Even “art yarn” with its quirks has a rustic beauty.

  • Join a Community: Online forums, local spinning guilds, or social media groups can offer advice and inspiration.

  • Experiment: Try blending colors or adding bits of silk or sparkle once you’re comfortable.

Why It’s Worth It

Spinning wool with a wheel is more than a craft—it’s a way to slow down, create, and connect with a tradition that’s been around for centuries. Every skein tells a story, from the sheep it came from to the hands that shaped it. Whether you’re spinning for a sweater, a gift, or just the joy of it, you’re keeping a piece of history alive.

Ready to give it a whirl? Grab some wool, sit down at a wheel, and let the rhythm take over. Happy spinning!





Project Ideas For Veriegated Yarn

Project Ideas for Variegated Yarn

Whenever I travel, I stop in and visit the local knit shop and usually walk away with one skein of special yarn to help me remember my trip.  Often, it’s a variegated yarn dyed by a local dyer that I couldn’t leave without.  We all love those beautiful variegated yarns with those jewel tones and beautiful colors that play so well together in the skein.  

Showcasing your yarn with the perfect project can pose a problem for some.  Variegated yarn can be tricky, it can pool or it gets muddy and the results aren’t what we expected.  Below I put together a few projects for you to consider, these patterns will showcase your yarn beautifully.  Whenever you can break up those busy yarn colors with a solid contrasting color you will be happy with the results.

The Prickly Fingerless mitts https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/prickly

Of course, you can use a variegated yarn in a colorwork sweater as your contrast color.  A couple things to consider; the colorwork design needs to be in a larger bolder motif and you will want to make sure your main color is a very strong contrast as your design may disappear in some areas almost giving it a static look.

Give it a try and get ready to start planning for your next project and use that variegated yarn you love.

Sandi Avila

Instructor @ Fiber, llc.

Knit Montana 2025!

Stop into Fiber to pick up a passport card, or if you place an order online, ask for a passport card to be included in your order.

Knit Montana 2025 is coming!

Join us on Zoom, Tuesday, January 7th, at 7:00pm for the kick-off our Knit Montana yarn-crawl. Follow this link to the Zoom invitation. Not just for knitters, we welcome all who are inspired by the idea of creating with Montana yarns and fiber. Knitters, crocheters, spinners, weavers, felters, whatever your personal passion, come on and join in! We challenge you to visit as many participating yarn shops, farm stores, and websites as you can through August of 2025. These businesses will provide you with a Knit Montana visit card listing all participating businesses where you will receive a stamp with each Montana yarn purchase. After obtaining four or more stamps, you will be eligible for prizes. By the end of August, 2025, send your card in to Montana Fibershed to be entered into the drawing for the grand prize.

We are looking forward to connections that the Knit Montana initiative will foster. We plan on a monthly Zoom meet-up to share fabulous yarns we have found, favorite patterns to knit with Montana wools, info about Montana designers, etc. In short, all things fiber, design, and local producers and makers!

Best wishes and hope to see you on Zoom!

Barb French, co-Chair

All About Merinos by John Steitzhof

In introducing Merino to this group, I thought I wanted to discuss and show something different. Most breeds of sheep are striving for a clear set of defining characteristics. Merino being one of the oldest commercial breeds is probably the most widespread and diverse breed. It truly is about 14 or more breeds rolled into one name and they are that different. The Merino sheep date back to the late Middle Ages in Spain. The wool was long protected by the King of Spain. Export of a merino sheep was punishable by death. It wasn’t until the 18th century that small flocks were exported to France, German Nation States and the United States. It was starting this time that merino took on many strains. Each of these nations had different climates, conditions and markets. The strains evolved into many strains from there. The French developed their Merino into the Ramboulliet. Those Ramboulliet then made it over to the United States and adapted to the US conditions. I am quite sure different from the French Rambo with the different conditions. The Germans developed the Saxon and the Merinolandschaf. The Merinolandschaf has been further developed to Merinofleishschaf or Mutton sheep and a Merinolangschaf (merino longwool). The Americans developed the Delaine Merino. By the 19thcentury Australia had imported merino from these scattered flocks to form their own strains (Spanish, Peppin, South Australian and Saxon. In the early 1900’s South Africa developed the Dohne Merino from the German Merino and the Australian Peppin merino. The South African Mutton Merino (SAMM) was also developed around that time from the German Mutton and Lincoln sheep. Merinos are also raised in South America. (We had an email from a fellow merino breeder last week asking about a feed we were using)

In roughly 300 years different climates, different terrain, different markets have been reason for this breed as a highly valued commercial breed to evolve in many different ways. For example, let’s go over the 4 main Australian strains. Peppin, South Australian, Saxon and Spanish. Peppin is the largest group, roughly 70%. The Peppin was developed from both Spanish and French Merinos. Long legged and big fleece, a great all-around merino. The South Australian is the largest of the Aussi merinos and developed for the arid South Australian country. Long bodies, more of a fine -medium fine fiber. The Saxon are the finest fiber of the Aussi merinos and the smallest. They were adapted to the high rainfall areas on the southern coast and Tazmania. The Spanish Merino were known for their very defined crimp. In more recent times the breeders were developing the superfine merinos, those were Saxon and Spanish merino crosses. New refinements- Booroola, SRS and breed spinoffs- Corriedale, Cormo, Bond and Polwarth have come from Australia and New Zealand. The Aussis will never be done tinkering with this breed. It can always be better. Most of the new developed breeds involved crosses with Lincoln but they did some with Leicester as well.

Artificial Insemination (AI) breeding has added another level of development for the merino. It is now easier to cross a Dohne merino with a Peppin merino for example. There are many project flocks around the world tweaking the genetics to build the perfect merino.

Let’s roll this information into what you see as either fiber artists or searching for an addition to your flock. Merino can and will vary from source to source. It depends on the genetics of that flock. At Steitzhof we have made an attempt to select genetics from strains that meet our goals. We do this through selecting rams adding genetics from breeders we know to be incorporating these different strains in their flocks. Each breeder has their own picture of how they want to mold their merino flock. We do not need to cross breed w other breeds there is enough variance within our own breed. Yes, we specialize in color and maintaining a full color spectrum while striving for the finest fiber traits. We also look to maintain some diversity in the structure. From our massive 300 lb ram Herman (BLACK) born on the range of Nevada to the show flock boys of California, Captain Jack and the new ram lamb Golden Boy (MOORIT) with their long bodies to the 185lb short, stocky build of Astro (GRAY) coming from a more commercial flock in Missouri. Their genetics are different as the strains of Peppin, South Australian, Dohne, Saxon, Rambouilliet and Delaine show across these 4 in both structure and fiber. Knowing Although we currently do not use any of our flock for meat. We have always selected for meat qualities in our breeding stock as a back up for us but more importantly to give customers of our breeding stock that same extra value.

I hope I have given you something new to think about this magnificent breed. They are definitely one of the easier breeds to manage in terms of calm demeanor, fencing, adaptability and general care probably because they have been so commercialized. We graze ours on everything from pasture grass to weeds/brush to forest. From flat to steep hillside and cliffs. If its green they are going there to eat it. The barn is only a convenience tool for us at lambing or maintenance operations. I will leave you with a picture taken of our 3 rams before we added the new guy. This picture should give you a better idea of the diversity. Tomorrow I will share a video of our ram lambs. All 3 lines are represented and see if you can pick out which they come from and the strains associated.

Visit https://steitzhof.com/ to purchase fleece, yarn or breeding stock. Kalispell, MT

All images by John Steitzhof

“Color therapy for your soul”